We went to Washington DC on Oct 30-31 to participate in the Jon Stewart “Rally for Sanity.” Since our flight home on Sunday didn’t leave till 3.40, we decided to make the trek to the National Cathedral for Sunday morning Eucharist.
Unlike most tourist sites in DC, it’s not easy to get to the Cathedral via the Metro without a long walk or a bus ride. We had brunch at a restaurant near the Cleveland Park metro stop to fortify us for the mile+ walk up the hill through a beautiful residential area. How odd to see a massive neo-Gothic building appear over the rooftops as we drew near!
The National Cathedral is Episcopalian, which is a measure of the traditional connection between Episcopalians and the seat of power–a connection no longer in place it seems, or surely there would be more sensible behavior on display in Washington DC. The building was started in 1907 and finished in 1990. It is immense, and being on one of the few areas of high ground in the city, is easy to see. (We got a particularly impressive view from National Airport, across the Potomac River, on our way out of town.) Right next door is another Episcopal church, the parish of St Alban’s, which amused me because as I told you last year, there’s a St Alban’s right next to the Anglican Cathedral in Tokyo as well. 🙂
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We were a little late so were in the second block of seating in the nave, about halfway along. You can see from the pictures how huge it is. I guess there were at least 400 people there at 11.15 (one of four Sunday services). Clearly the folks around us were mostly tourists because they didn’t sing the hymns nor say the responses. In fact, the family behind us looked decidedly nonplussed during the Peace when we turned around to shake hands. They left not long after!
They didn’t use the choir stalls in the chancel, but rather, the altar was in front of the screen that divides the apse from the rest of the nave. The choir of men and angelic-looking boys framed the altar. Flat screen TVs are mounted in the nave so that you can see what’s going on up front which is a long way away. During communion the camera panned the windows, or showed the organist playing, which was tastefully done but still, well, touristy.
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The presider did not chant, and there was no incense. Also, they only had one reading before the Gospel. After the service, they had coffee in the back of the nave. Instead, we walked all around and look at the several chapels, and went through the apse for a look all the way back to the Rose window. The colorful windows range from modern designs with abstracts, or the planets, to traditional ones including representational American figures like a pilgrim or George Washington. And above the nave are hung flags of the 50 states in order of admission into the Union, with DC’s flag at the end. The sun was low enough so that the light through the windows checkered the stone in vivid colors.
It really does evoke the grand Gothic cathedrals of Europe. I have to say, I found that effect rather disconcerting! But in a nice way. We figured you could put at least 4 of St Paul’s into the National Cathedral and still have space left over!
If you go to Washington, the National Cathedral has a very helpful website with directions, the schedule of services, and list of preachers. They also have an active music program and numerous other events. If you’re going to be in DC for Christmas, you have to apply for a ticket on the website. Don’t rely on GoogleMaps to tell you where the Cathedral is (they place “the pin” on the Cathedral offices up the hill). But it’s so immense, you can’t miss it.
Susan Forsburg.
Click on any photo for a closer view!
